Oh dear! A Rabbit's Tale

On Friday last week there was a food market in Whitecross Street just round the corner from work so I shimmied down at lunchtime, mostly looking for a treat to eat and curious to see which producers would be there. It was pouring with rain so the crowds weren't exactly thronging. Lots of the stall holders were also sellers at Borough like Shellseekers, Dupond Bakery and Silfield Farm, so I happily scoffed fresh grilled scallops and bacon on the shell while I wandered about.

There were also a couple of game dealers that I'd not seen before. I have been thinking of cooking rabbit recently - the meat is inexpensive and I have always enjoyed it when I've eaten it in restaurants. One of the dealers had oven ready wild rabbits for £2.50 so, figuring I couldn't go wrong, I bought one. At home I found a fabulous sounding dish of rabbit with sherry and garlic and smoked bacon in Fergus Henderson's Nose to Tail Eating and I settled on making it as a full on treat for dinner Saturday.

It is rare that I cook something that is completely, irredeemably inedible.

I took the rabbit from its plastic bag and the lovely boyfriend, wielding the cleaver like a pro, chopped it into half a dozen pieces. It smelt, strongly and unmistakably, like a stable. Vaguely daunted, but not dissauded from my plan, we washed the pieces and patted them dry. It is no doubt obvious to the reader that it is probably not possible to wash away the smell of horse dung with a quick rinse under the cold tap but I was hoping that slow cooking in the aromatics and sherry would transform the wee beastie.

I browned the meat, which didn't help the smell, then cooked the bacon and shallots which gave off a wonderful aroma. I put the meat back, added stock and wine and sherry and 40 cloves of garlic and set the pot to cook. Ninety minutes later the rabbit didn't look cooked to the point of falling off the bone so it went back into the oven for another half hour. Then too it didn't seem ready but we were starving for our supper so the pot went back while I made a fast and decadent repast of fried egg sandwiches.

I left the pan in for another half hour, then let it cool overnight, planning to have the casserole for dinner Tuesday. But when I removed the lid Sunday morning, there was the unmistakable waft of horse in amongst the pleasant smoky bacon sweetish sherry aroma. This was not a 'slight mustiness' - it was full on rank. My sweetheart had a sniff and insisted it should go straight into the bin and out the door without pause.

It's a shame but it was defintely inedible. I will try it again - I'm still convinced that it will be great with a bonny bunny - but this time I'll use a game dealer I trust.

Here's the recipe because I'm convinced it will make a hearty dish.

Rabbit and Garlic

A healthy splash of olive oil

1 rabbit, chopped into sections

sea salt and pepper

150g/5oz smked streaky bacon, cut into chunks and rind reserved

12 shallots, peeled but kept whole

30-40 cloves of garlic, unpeeled but separated

150ml dry sherry

300ml white wine

1/2 litre chicken stock

1 bay leaf

A bundle of fresh thyme and parsley, tied together

Get a large ovenproof pot with a lid, place on the heat and pour in enough olive oil to just cover the bottom. Season the rabbit pieces with slat and pepper and when the oil is hot brown the rabbit. When you are happy with the hue, remove the pieces from the pot (if all the oil has gone with them add another splash).

Put in the bacon, its skin, and the shallots. Allow to sizzle, and stir for 10 minutes, not letting them burn. Now return the rabbit to the pot and add the garlic, sherry, wine, stock, bay leaf and finally the bundle of herbs. Check the seasoning. Bring to a boil, straight away reduce to a simmer, place the lid on and put the pot into a warm to hot oven for approximately 11/2 hours, but keep an eye on it and check the meat for giving qualities with a sharp knife ( not quite but soon to fall off the bone ).

Serve hot straight from the pot, encouraging your fellow diners to suck the flesh from the unpeeled garlic cloves, which will now be sweet and delicious. For the juices you need both bread and napkins.

If you have a good rabbit - try it. I'm sure it will be good.

I Bought

Saturday was a glorious day in London. Though there was a definite nip in the air the sky was an endless blue and the sun was brilliant. Didn't realise until I saw the bus coming that I didn't have my bus pass so had to leave the lovely boyfriend dreaming in the sunshine and run home to retrieve it. So we were a little later than we might have been if I'd been more awake.

I needed to make some stock so I bought 2 chicken carcasses at Wyndham's for £1

Ginger Pig was next where I bought a big piece of boned and rolled leg of pork for Sunday and lunches, a big thick slice of rump steak, some smoked bacon and eggs - £38.90

We were feeling a little peckish what with the autumn chill and everything so we bought an egg and bacon roll and a sausage in a roll from the concession Roast has set up at ground level - the meat was good but the buns, though fresh, were far too dense - £7.50

I needed Parmesan so we stopped at the Italian stall and got a lovely piece and a round of soft cheese that we are assured is truly amazing - £10

Vegetables next from Booths - lettuce, sugar snaps, fennel, broccoli, butternut squash, coriander, onions, garlic, shallots, lemons, the first brussel sprouts - seriously moving into more substantial fare as the temperature drops - £9

Carrots from Total Organics £1.20

A small tub of smoked salmon from the Irish stall outside Brindisa because I cannot resist - £3.50

Milk, cream, crème frâiche and bread from Neal's Yard - £9.60

In an heroic act of self-denial there was no chocolate brownie for the my sweetheart this week - I'm not sure why. We still managed to spend £80.70 for the week

This Week

Saturday we had some bread and vegemite with the rosemary bread and it was a thin crusted slice with a dense soft centre - well worth the change. And it made good toast for the next couple of mornings. Dinner was a new dish from Fuchsia Dunlop's book, Slow Cooked Beef with Potatoes - not something I would immediately associate with Chinese cuisine but it makes sense. It was richly flavoured and very good.

Sunday after toast and coffee we dodged the rain and went to a preview of The Devil Wears Prada - funny and nasty and good Sunday morning viewing then we went home for scotch egg and the rest of the prep for dinner with Vicki and David - runny gorgonzola scraped up with crisp green celery, coq au vin over basmati rice and the fabulous almond and orange cake with a dollop of crème frâiche and coffee.

Monday was toast and coffee for breakfast, the cold chicken with rice for lunch after the rest of the almond cake for morning tea and vegetable curry and rice for dinner

Tuesday coffee and yoghurt and cereals for breakfast and the same for the rest of the week, lunch was curry and rice and dinner was stir fry pork and green peppers, sea spice aubergine and rice

Wednesday was leftover stir fry for lunch which actually was very good - I worried that it wouldn't work but the flavours were lovely. We were out in the evening recalling our youth watching the film of the Johnny Ramone tribute concert and Q&A after with Marky Ramone - the music is still great then a bowl of pho at Viet

Thursday I bought some so so fish and chips for lunch because it was cold and wet and nasty out but I wouldn't do it again from that shop as they weren't great, and then for supper we had big bowls of delicately flavoured leek and bacon pasta which was.

Friday it's boiled egg and salad for lunch and probably omelette with boiled ratte potatoes and salad for supper along with half the ciabatta that I froze on the weekend because the half rosemary loaf was huge

Not much leftover this week - half the spiced beef went into the freezer for another dinner, there was about a pint of red wine sauce left from the coq au vin that has also gone into the freezer, very possibly to be served over mashed potatoes and boiled carrots and sprouts when the weather gets colder, half a bunch of celery that is still crisp and a few carrots

Pasta with Bacon & Leeks

This was dinner that had to be a quickie, it was Thursday after French class and as always the lovely boyfriend needed feeding soonish after I got home and it was a need for me too as the weather was vile. First blast of autumn with heavy rain and whip your brolly inside out winds to splatter you with misery and just generally nasty.

Didn't have vast amounts of stuff in the fridge but I did have some smoked bacon and leeks and that was a good place to start. I had a couple of leftover things as well that needed using up - the last of a bottle of white wine and half a tub of crème frâiche. I had a vision of pasta sauce.

Pasta with Bacon & Leeks

1 small onion, finely chopped
100g/4oz bacon, sliced into 1cm/ 1/2 inch strips
3 or 4 leeks, washed and whites sliced into 1cm/ 1/2 inch rings
1/2 cup white wine
2tbspns olive oil
Fresh grated nutmeg
2-3 tbspns crème frâiche
2-3 tbspns grated Parmesan
250g pasta shapes you like

Heat the oil in heavy based pan and gently fry the onion and bacon for 5 minutes. Add the leeks and stir to coat then tip in the wine, season with a good grinding of pepper, turn the heat right down and simmer. Meanwhile cook the pasta in plenty of boiling water till al dente.

Grate some fresh nutmeg over the leeks and add the crème frâiche and stir to mix well. Set aside 2 tablespoons of pasta water then drain the pasta. Mix the sauce through, adding the extra water if needed for a lighter finish. Check and adjust the seasoning. Top with Parmesan and serve.

And my vision turned out to be very good - quite light and delicate with lots of subtle flavours and textures. And ready in half an hour. Definitely one to repeat.

Sea Spice Aubergine

I first tried sea spice aubergine a few years ago at the recommendation of the owner of a little Vietnamese restaurant we used to frequent. When I asked him what it was he shrugged and said it's nice, you'll like it. He was right. I've had it many times since in other restaurants but could never find a recipe for it. I googled it - my fall back response whenever I need information - but without success. The results are all for takeaway menus from Swindon not recipes to follow at home. I scanned the shelves of Chinese supermarkets and found nothing marked sea spice. I asked but got a blank look in reply.

All very curious.

Then one day I was reading about something else and it mentioned that sea spice aubergine are sometimes called fish fragrant aubergine because the combination of spices is usually used to cook fish dishes. So I googled fish fragrant aubergine and finally got a result - I can't tell you how delighted I was. The recipe I liked the best comes from the Chinese Healthy Living website. I rushed home that night to try it out - and to my delight it was brilliant. I made it again last night with pork and green peppers and steamed basmati rice. It was very very good.

Sea-spiced Aubergines

750g/1 1/2lb aubergine
1/2 tbspn olive oil
4-5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 slices fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, finely sliced
50ml/2oz vegetable stock or water
1 tbspn yellow bean sauce
1 tbspn Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 tspn shoyu or tamari sauce 2 spring onions, chopped, to serve

Put the aubergine ina foil-lined roasting tin and bake in teh centre of a preheated oven, 200C/400F/Gas Mark 6, for 30-35 minutes until soft and wrinkly. Remove and set aside to cool, then cut into 2.5 cm/1 inch cubes.

Heat the oil in a nonstick sauté pan over a high heat until hot, add the garlic, ginger and chilli and stir-fry for a few seconds till fragrant. Stir in the stock, yellow bean sauce, rice wine and shoyu sauce and bring to the boil. Add the aubergine cubes and simmer for about 5 minutes. Slowly stir in the cornflour paste and cook until the sauce has thickened and turned transparent.

Sprinkle with chopped spring onions and serve immediately.

Yellow bean sauce and shoyu are probably only available from Asian food stores - or online for mail order if you don't have one locally. This is such a lovely dish that they are well worth hunting down.

Orange & Almond Cake

I seldom make sweet things except for special occasions. Dinner Sunday night was special enough for cake because it was the last night I'd see Vicki in London this trip before she jets back off to Singapore. We were joined for dinner by David. The three of us have known each other for the longest time - we shared a house when I very first came to London more than 20 years ago and we've been friends ever since, dining together frequently. I still find myself looking forward to the next time because it is invariably fun. The lovely boyfriend was the fourth and I think it's fun for him too - if it's not at least he gets to eat cake!

I'd made coq au vin as the main dish - it's a meal to make for special people because it takes time over two days before it is ready. The work is all done early on so by the time guests arrive you are free to join them in a glass of wine and the latest gossip. Perfect. I found the recipe for this cake in Rose Prince's 'The New English Kitchen' as an adaptation from Anna del Conte who is one of my favourite writers so I was sure it would be a good.

The almonds I bought from Brindisa - fat creamy heart shaped discs, Marcona almonds are native only to Spain. They are a wonderful nut, smooth and juicy with a sweet finish and good for you too, being rich in nutrients and mono unsaturated oils. They are well worth seeking out, and pounded to a rough crumb they produced a fine, moist cake.

This simple, elegant cake is good enough to turn me into a cakey pig - I'm already thinking about when I can make it again.

Orange & Almond Cake

150g/5oz blanched almonds, whole or flaked
3 eggs, separated
150g/5oz golden caster sugar
60g/2oz potato flour
1 1/2 oranges
a pinch of salt
30g/1oz butter, softened
icing sugar for dusting
crème fraîche for serving

Preheat the oven to 160C/325F/Gas Mark 3. Chop the almonds in a food processor, or finely by hand, until they have a crumb-like texture. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until pale and creamy. Add the almonds and the potato flour. Grate the zest of the whole orange into the mixture, then add the juice of 1 1/2 oranges.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites with the salt until they form stiff peaks. Fold them into the orange and egg mixture. Butter a 20cm/8 inch round cake tin - use all the butter; when it cooks it will be absorbed into the cake and form a delicious crust. Pour in the mixture and bake for 50 minutes, until the cake has shrunk from the sides of the tin and feels springy when you press the surface with a finger. Unmould the cake and cool on wire rack. Dust with icing sugar.

Serve on flat plates with a dollop of crème fraîche.

Potato flour is a very fine squeaky flour that I buy in Asian food stores - either Taj stores in Brick Lane or Wai Tan on Electric Avenue though I suspect you can probably get it in a good Italian deli like Camisa in Soho.

I Bought

Rain of the torrential variety swirled around us all weekend so we hit Borough Market expecting it to be fairly quiet. But no - the onset of autumn seemed to bring out the crowds looking to comfort themselves with fine food at home so mostly we were dealing with queues.

At Wyndhams Poultry I couldn't get a boiling fowl but I did get some frozen chicken's feet which delighted me no end. I am plannning to make a big pot of stock soon and had expected to have to order the feet specially. To my surprise they had some tucked away in the freezer. They are now in the freezer at home till next weekend when I'll add them to the pot for an unctuous silkiness to my soups and risottos. Also bought a whole chicken and some extra leg/thigh portions to make coq au vin as a special supper for Vicki before she returns to Singapore - £10.50

Ginger Pig was busy early and they had stewing steak on special at £7.50 a kilo so I bought some for slow cooked spiced beef as well as eggs and smoked bacon but I also wanted a pigs trotter to make the marinade for the chicken but they had sold out - must have been a run on them(!) - £11.40

Tried Silfield Farm for a pigs trotter without luck and then got a result at Northfields where they had a small mountain of pigs heads and trotters in the pork fridge, the butcher very kindly split it for me and it was only £1

Leeks, parsley, cucumber, aubergine and onions from the veg stall out the back - £4.20

Carrots and barley from Total Organics - £2.30

Mushrooms, sugar snaps, ratte potatoes, shallots, garlic, oranges - £6

Blanched almonds - fat and creamy - from Brindisa - £3

Then back past Ginger Pig and I bought a big fat golden scotch egg - £3

Guatamalan coffee from Monmouth - £11.50

Milk, yoghurt, crème fraîche and a ciabatta from Neals Yard - £7.10

At Flour Power I went to buy the now obligatory chocolate brownie for my sweetie and they had lots of bread piled up so, feeling that we were getting into a little rut with almost always only having ciabatta I bought a half of rosemary and potato bread that was crusted with Maldon salt to give us a little filip - and a brownie - £3.50

All in all it was £63.50 and we got in just ahead of the downpour