As the winter slinks towards its conclusion for another year I find myself hankering for crisp raw foods, for the joy of salads. I really enjoy the winter's harvest - bright green bulbs of brussel sprouts do gladden my heart - but by now I want something that offers resistance when I bite. I want fast and simple and a whole other kind of melange. There was a sign once outside Total Organics shop in Marylebone listing the days lunch specials - the highlight for me was Melée of Vegetables. Still makes me laugh.
It is too early yet for lettuce and tomatoes - though available they have neither taste nor a desirable texture. Buying them now has the frisson of succumbing to temptation but the reward is disappointment in the eating and a chastening sense of foolishness for expecting any other outcome. Once bitten ...
The best way to sate my salad need is to use winter vegetables instead - big fat bottomed bulbs of fennel and long crisp pale sticks of celery chopped into generous pieces with jewelled colour and sweetness coming from a scattering of carrot. The flavours are big and well defined but they work in harmony and the sensation of a mouthful of crunchy bits exploding between your teeth is just what is needed to brighten a cold day. Dressed with a spiced oil this really is quite sublime.
A Winter Salad
1 large fennel bulb, thickly sliced
3 celery stalks, choppped into 1 inch lengths
2 carrots, peeled and sliced into rounds
3tbspns chilli spiced oil
1 tbspn lemon juice
salt and pepper
Put all the vegetables in a bowl, add the oil, juice and seasonings and toss together. Leave for half an hour or so for the flavours to mingle.
I use an oil I make myself that is infused with orange and chilli and garlic but there are many interesting oils widely available so simply use one that appeals.
The best way to sate my salad need is to use winter vegetables instead - big fat bottomed bulbs of fennel and long crisp pale sticks of celery chopped into generous pieces with jewelled colour and sweetness coming from a scattering of carrot. The flavours are big and well defined but they work in harmony and the sensation of a mouthful of crunchy bits exploding between your teeth is just what is needed to brighten a cold day. Dressed with a spiced oil this really is quite sublime.
A Winter Salad
1 large fennel bulb, thickly sliced
3 celery stalks, choppped into 1 inch lengths
2 carrots, peeled and sliced into rounds
3tbspns chilli spiced oil
1 tbspn lemon juice
salt and pepper
Put all the vegetables in a bowl, add the oil, juice and seasonings and toss together. Leave for half an hour or so for the flavours to mingle.
I use an oil I make myself that is infused with orange and chilli and garlic but there are many interesting oils widely available so simply use one that appeals.
No comments:
Post a Comment